And yes, the paint is not yet dry, but I can’t resist the pleasure of presenting you the fuselage with these beautiful colors. I am very proud of it.
It really takes shape. I still have a lot of work left, the registration, the masts, the landing gear, the fake engine, the radiator and the cockpit, but it’s really starting to look like a beautiful bird.
Et oui, la peinture n’est pas encore sèche, mais je ne résiste pas au plaisir de vous présenter le fuselage avec ces belles couleurs. J’en suis très fier.
ça prend vraiment forme. Il me reste pas mal de boulot encore, l’immatriculation, les mats, le train, le faux moteur, le radiateur et la cabine de pilotage, mais ça commence vraiment à ressembler à un bel oiseau.
There were a lot of details to reproduce on the engine hood. Apart from the structural lines that I had already made, I reproduced the rivets last night. Long work and I had to remove it sometimes and start again until I am satisfied with the result.
The rivets are made with white glue. In the following photos, the drops of glue have just been deposited and are still very visible.
I started finishing the fuselage in September. I used a 25 g per square meter of glass fiber bonded to the nitrocellulose coating. The fuselage is sanded to rectify as much as possible all the defects which have been corrected beforehand with light balsa coating. Everything is ready, I’m outside, because it’s going to sniff beefy and it’s not great to breathe that.
A layer of coating is passed over the entire fuselage and the technical hatches below. Let it dry.
When dry, lightly sand to remove any fibers from the wood that you feel on the surface. We cut the fiber coupons that will be placed on the fuselage. Attention, the fiber is super fragile, so I used masking tape to put in the place of the cut and thus avoid that « it frayed ».
I covered with a layer of nitrocellulose coating starting at the center.
Do not forget to cut the passage of the control cables
The layer is put, it is left to dry.
The advantage of nitrocellulose coating is its rapid drying capacity. 30 minutes later, excess fiber can be removed. To do this, always Alallou technique, a wedge to sand on the edges. It’s fast and efficient.
The upcoming sequel, I was caught by the night … The days are much shorter in September and during the day I work. However, I will be quick because I have to take advantage of the good weather. It would be impossible to do this indoors, or with a gas mask.
For the finishing of the wheel fairings, I used a detailed enlargement of an old photo of the size which allowed me to see that I have to redraw the shapes. Which is done with a cutting disc. I have a total of 3 fairings.
I first redid a general sanding with very fine water paper to smooth the defects and remove all that is unnecessary. First step, the domed rivets on the bottom of the fairing. I haven’t changed my habits and I’m still using a lab pipette and this time I took « Titebond » to rivet. The first rivets are installed. An entire face is finished. Immediately after filing, the rivets seem very visible, but the next morning, they became barely visible, but nevertheless very present when touched (last photo)
After reproducing the rivets, I also added a sheet metal joint which is visible at the level of the wheel fastening systems. I did it with white glue. I am not very satisfied with the result which lacks realism for my taste. The lines are not regular enough, but I will be satisfied with it. The detail to reproduce
The sheet metal line made with glue
Once dry. The tracing line is visible in transparency
Passage of a layer of filler.
Une couche de gris argenté. Séchage au soleil. Et oui il y avait du soleil hier…
I then proceeded to masking to add the red streaks. I must admit that it made me nervous … Really not easy with all these shapes and curves … Pfff …
To reproduce the rivets, I have the chance to work in a lab and I recovered an automatic and adjustable pipette which went to the trash. With that, I should be able to make regular drops of glue…
Allalou (Pascal) is using a syringe from our little ones’ medicine boxes with a sharp needle. As far as I’m concerned, I used an automatic pipette set to 10 microliters and I diluted the white glue about halfway.
It’s not to tremble. The principle is to lightly press the plunger of the pipette so that the drop comes out at the end of the cone and is placed on the hood. The droplet by capillary action comes to rest on the hood. With 10 microliters, you can make 3 drops.
I reproduced the first crown
And the 2 lines of rivets on the back part in accordance (at least I hope) with the size photo I had.
The drops as they dry lose volume and have become more discreet. In the last photos, they had just been dropped.